Day Hiking: Smutwood Peak
We recently returned from a week spent exploring the backcountry of the Canadian Rockies. This was our first hiking and camping trip in a different country and it did not disappoint. The hike to Smutwood Peak easily became my favorite hike to date — and we have completed a lot of trails over the years. This blog will be an ultimate guide to completing this exceptional summit.
Trail Details:
Distance: 11.1 miles
Elevation: 3,047 ft
Difficulty: Hard
Dogs Allowed: On Leash
Route Type: Out and Back
Duration: 5-9 hours
Permit: Kananaskis Conservation Pass
Getting to the Trailhead:
The Smutwood Peak trailhead is located off of Mount Shark Road just past Mount Engadine Lodge. No matter which direction you are coming from, you will be traveling on highway 742 which is a relatively flat, loose gravel road. The road is very scenic and well traveled — any car should be capable of getting to this trailhead. There is a reasonable amount of parking but the lot definitely starts to fill up by late morning. There are a lot of day use areas along the way and we camped at Spray West Campground which really cut our drive time down that morning.
Hiking Safety
Hiking in the backcountry of the Canadian Rockies takes a certain level of preparation and planning. Reading recent reviews and checking the status of the trail through Alberta Parks is a good way to be up to date on trail conditions, as well as knowing about temporary trail closures before you go. The best time of year to complete this hike is July through September but conditions in the alpine are still variable year by year and even day by day. Downloading the map when you first plan your trip is best practice because cell phone service is very limited. Like many trails in this area, there are often big game wildlife sightings including goats, deer, and grizzlies. It is important to brush up on bear safety prior to exploring these rugged landscapes. Dogs are often a trigger for wildlife and leash laws are in effect for the safety of you, your dogs, and the animals that inhabit these mountains. Hiking in groups, making a lot of noise, and being aware of your surroundings will go a long way.
What to Bring:
Click here for a list of my tried and true items I took on this hike, and here for my camera gear!
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Daypack and water bladder
Garmin in-reach mini
Hiking Boots
Clothing: hiking pants or leggings, wool socks, baselayer, mid-layer, wind breaker/rain jacket, puffy jacket, mittens, hat
Sunglasses
Camera Gear: camera, tripod, camera kit, extra batteries
Watch
Hiking poles
Bear Spray
Bug spray, sunscreen, medical kit
Snacks
Blanket
Hiking to Smutwood Peak
We arrived at the trailhead just before 6:00 in the morning. There was one other car in the parking lot at the time. This person was also getting ready so we knew we would be the first boots on the trail this day in very ideal conditions as far as bear activity. The solo hiker asked to join us so she wouldn’t have to hike alone in bear country and we were happy to increase our group size. We all finished gearing up and reconvened a few minutes later.
We started hiking with eager anticipation through a dense, treed area that became more narrow as we went. Some cloud coverage was in the forecast but from our perspective, all we could really see were clouds. We knew there were mountains lurking behind them, but we had no idea whether or not the clouds begin to clear or if they would continue to limit our view at the top. The time passed quickly as we made our way over the flat landscape, casual conversation flowing naturally. We were a few miles in at this point and had begun following the trail alongside a running creek. We descended to a small waterfall and pool where the dogs were able to enjoy themselves for a few minutes before we continued on. Shortly after, the trail opened up into a beautiful meadow and we got our first glimpses of the mountains that surrounded us.
The elevation gain to mile ratio doesn’t appear that daunting at first glance, but the first three miles are essentially flat which means you will gain, on average, 1,000 ft per mile in the second half of the hike. After making our way through the meadow the only way to go was up. The initial grade is quite intense and while we personally don’t utilize hiking poles, we definitely think they could come in handy here. As we climbed in elevation we were greeted by the vibrant yellows, reds, whites, and purples of the blooming wildflowers.
We took breaks as we needed them, but we made pretty good time to the saddle where we caught our first glimpses of Birdwood Lakes. Believe me when I tell you I was smiling so hard even despite the blasting winds that were funneling through the rock formations. We opted not to spend too much time here and started our trek alongside the lakes after the initial adrenaline rush from the views settled. It wasn’t long after we started hiking again that the sun started to break through the clouds creating this wildly vibrant and dreamy glow on the mountains. The emotions vibrating through me could only be explained as euphoric as I glanced behind and saw how vivid all of the colors suddenly appeared. I asked Niko to take a photo of me before the sun could slip back behind the clouds — but when he turned around he was met instead with a curious buck, peeking his fuzzy head and antlers around the bend, staring us down from the place we had stood just a minute before. We were in this brief stare down before he began to gracefully wander down into the basin. It felt spiritual and raw. My eyes were tearing up at the once in a lifetime moment that felt like a gift from nature.
From this point forward we were treated to never ending views of jagged mountains, shifting with our perspective as we continued along and up the trail. I can’t even tell you how many times I unclipped my camera from my shoulder because I just wanted to capture every little bit of it. After passing the first lake, the view opened up on our lefthand side to more expansive, towering mountains. We took a few photos here before continuing on.
The intensity picked up again after passing the second lake. We mostly bee lined it the rest of the way up so we could enjoy the peak to ourselves and not have to worry about passing other hikers on the more technical areas — the last mile and a half was the most challenging with a rocky scramble for approximately the final half mile push to the summit. Our dogs did great but if your dog is afraid of heights or has been known to have issues with their paw pads, I would recommend stopping before the scramble. Alltrails does have a disclaimer that while dogs are allowed it is not recommended to bring them. I think as long as you know your limits and theirs, and are okay with potentially not summiting it is a good trail for pups (I also think the hike would still be 100% worth it, even if you had to turn back before the scramble).
We had arrived at the summit just beofre 10:00am. We didn’t hang out for a super long time up there. It was pretty cold and while I had extra layers and a blanket in my bag, we knew there were some less windy spots we could stop on the way down to enjoy a snack. It would also allow the approaching hikers to have some solitude on the peak. We took our time getting back to the saddle, stopping for a snack and to take some photos here and there.
We had an uneventful hike back down to the car. We passed a lot of people that were on their way up, so this trail definitely gets more busy as the day goes on. We were so glad for our early start and memorable hike — one that will be a tough experience to top.
Niko and I ended up driving back to Montana later that day. We stopped in Canmore for an incredible lunch at BLAKE Restaurant Brewhouse and Distillery and highly recommend the amazing food and drink there.
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